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Recipe: An Aam-azing Condiment – Aam Ki Launji

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Mango is, as cliché as it sounds, truly the king of fruits – in India at least, if not the world.

It’s amazing how many recipes each person, not just each community or state, but each individual, can come up with using mango. Whether raw, ripe, or dried, this core ingredient can be used in countless ways. I recently mentioned aam ki launji, a Marwari condiment that is neither a pickle nor a chutney but is almost both, and I am happy to share a recipe for this today.

I’ve mentioned in the past how we have a tradition of exchanging mangoes during the season. Between friends, they travel lovingly – from my farm to yours, or my backyard to yours. During these trades, I have been inspired by learning about varieties of the fruit that were unknown to me. For instance, a friend of ours has around 20 mango trees in his garden in Kerala. When we visited him recently, he brought out some fruits called “mallika”. He grows them organically, without the use of any chemical sprays.

The mallika is such a lovely mango. It is so flavourful, and simply beautiful to look at. Its peel is a deep orange colour, and its shape is long and striking. It’s such a big mango — one that demands to be shared.

He gave me one to take home – a raw fruit that ripened slowly, which I was able to enjoy alongside the memories of the trip itself. I really treasured eating that mango, and now that season draws to a close, I am certain that it was one of this year’s mango highlights for me. I hope you too have had a particular mango, or many mangoes, that you especially cherished this year.

Returning now to aam ki launji after that dreamy interlude with organic Kerala mallikas, this dish is dear to me because it was taught to me by a beloved aunt of mine. Her name was Pushpa Agarwal, and she also happened to be a neighbour a long time ago when my children were little. In many ways, she played the role of a mother-in-law to me, guiding me and supporting me. Every time that I had any issues with my kids, she would come running to help me, or I would go running to her. She taught me a lot about child care, but she also taught me certain recipes. For instance, she made the best pani puri ever – it even beat streetside chaat stalls!

Aam ki launji, of course, was one of my inheritances from her. Since our palate at home is largely Gujarati and Tamil, this Marwari dish makes an appearance only because of Pushpa Aunty. You will see from the method below that the spices are different from the kinds of recipes that typically appear on this blog, as it’s from a cuisine range that I haven’t worked with here before. That said, some form of this dish is made pan-India. I’ve come across similar condiments in Kerala and Tamil Nadu too, though it goes by other names of course. At its core, it’s a blend of mango and jaggery, but the spices used vary from place to place.

My husband loves foods that are both sweet and tangy, so this aam ki launji is naturally one of his favourites. This means we usually have a batch in the fridge. It keeps well for about two weeks, although it gets finished off much sooner at my house. It goes really well with theplas and other flatbreads.

As I said, I am sharing this at the close of the mango season, when sweet, ripe mangoes can be replaced with something like a pickle, a daily condiment – one that is made with raw mango. Something I notice is that my body also craves foods in a seasonal way. My hankering for mangoes is dissipating as the weather changes. The need to have a nice, fresh, juicy mango to rival the heat is gone. I have noticed this happen in other years too, and I believe that our bodies adapt and that it’s not just a case of repetitively consuming to the point of boredom. Personally, I don’t even attempt freezing mangoes for the winter because I know I won’t want them then.

So, at the tail end of May, a last taste: aam ki launji.

Aam Ki Launji
(Yield: 2 cups)

500 grams raw mango
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon nigella seeds
¼ teaspoon methi seeds (fenugreek)
¼ teaspoon asafoetida
150 grams jaggery
Salt to taste
¼ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 heaped teaspoon Kashmiri chilli powder
½ cup water

Wash, peel and cut the mangoes. Set aside.

Heat a kadai and add the oil. Now add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, nigella seeds and methi. Once the seeds splutter, add the asafoetida.

Now, add the mangoes and sprinkle some water. Cover and allow to cook until mangoes are slightly tender. Open the lid and add salt and turmeric. Mix and then add the jaggery. Add water and chilli powder.

Stir and cover with lid until the water thickens. Your aam ki launji is now ready.

Enjoy it with flatbreads, rice or in any way you’d like to. As I said, it’s a special kind of condiment: not quite a pickle, not quite a chutney, not quite a gravy. It tastes just great, and accompanies many main courses beautifully. I do hope you’ll use your last chance to make the most of mangoes this season by preparing some aam ki launji to bring joy for a couple of weeks of the monsoon!

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Recipe: The Toast Of The Season – Healthy Veggie Toast With Mango

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I went through a phase of being obsessed with open toasts, made using homemade sourdough bread. I shared some recipes during that time, including cherry tomato yoghurt toast and pesto Parmesan toastie. With mangoes being in season right now (and like many if not most Indians, my love for mangoes is well-established!), I thought: why not mango toast? I decided to make mine healthy and loaded with nourishing ingredients, with the fruit adding a touch of sweetness and fun. So here’s a recipe for a healthy veggie toast with mango, one that brings the best thing about the summer into your breakfast!

During my open toast era, I also tried to make reels for Instagram. I was quick to realize where my forte lies: in photography, and not in videomaking. To be more accurate: my interest lies there as well, not just my forte. I began to focus – pun intended – then on what I enjoy most, and incidentally do better, and decided to keeping trying to do even better. I wrote about this recently too, and I continue to muse about the role of photography in my life. It is an artform that has given me so much, and I continue to learn and to grow within it. To aspiring artists of any kind, including the culinary forms, I want to say that the key to longevity is in figuring out and forging your strengths. For instance, I had various short-lived attempts at using the ever-popular Photoshop, but found that Lightroom suited me much better as a photo editing software. I would love to master Photoshop, for it has some excellent features and tools, but I use what I am most comfortable with for the majority of the time, and it yields good results.

Coming back to this healthy veggie toast with mango, the ingredients used were also selected based on what feels right. I am going through a pumpkin seed phase right now, so of course there is a generous sprinkling of those. There’s some yoghurt, so that there’s a protein boost right in the morning (I have used Greek yoghurt). Then, an assortment of leaves and staples found in my fridge. You can replace any of these with something more to your liking, or depending on what you have on hand. As for the mango itself: Alphonso is probably the best cultivar for this dish, but I have a particular South Indian favourite called Banganapalli which is also very sweet, and that’s what I’ve gone with.

This year, climate-related changes did impact the quality of some of the fruits on the market. Here in Chennai, I was a bit saddened by the effect of recent rains on my own mango trees, which were at peak flourishing. During the very hot days, however, I had been quick to make all my sun-dried spices – including amchur or raw mango powder, which is used as a souring agent in place of lime in many Indian dishes.

Speaking of seasons and phases, and as I mentioned earlier too, our menu at home also goes through these. Sometimes, as a family we develop a fancy for one item and simply must have it every single day for months. For a little while at one point, we started every morning with poha. At the moment, every morning begins with mango for us – specifically, this healthy veggie toast with mango. It’s a nutritious and delicious all-rounder, which makes it perfect for breakfast. How lucky that the fruiting season and our own foodie phase have coincided!

Healthy Veggie Toast With Mango

(Serves 1)

1 large slice sourdough

1 tablespoon yoghurt

A handful of cherry tomatoes

Lettuce leaves of your choice

Spring onions

Leeks (sliced)

1 tablespoon pumpkin seeds

2-3 basil leaves

3-6 slices ripe mango

Olive oil (for drizzling)

Salt and pepper to taste

Toast the sourdough slice and set aside.

Prepare all the veggies. Use what you like, in the amount that you wish to use. This is why I have been vague about the quantities in the ingredients list, and just given you the gist of what goes into mine.

Now, top the toast with the yoghurt, followed by the prepared veggies. Layer the mango slices at the end, then drizzle with olive oil. You may also want to add a sprinkling of salt and black pepper.

Your healthy veggie toast with mango is now ready. Savour the mix of flavours and textures, from the sweetness of the fruit to the crunchiness of the seeds and everything else in the mix!

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Recipe: The Marvel Of The Season – Mango Tart

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Since we are still bang in the middle of summer, when mangoes are abundant, I simply must share yet another mango recipe. I had been longing to make a tart for ages, but was held back by the worry that I would not be very good at it. However, I reminded myself that when you come down to it, baking is very simple. There are different methods, but it’s about following one method to a tee (for my beginner’s intro to baking, do check out this post). So you could say I went back to my own basics, and made myself this very marvellous mango tart.

When I say that mangoes are abundant, I mean both in the market as well as in my back garden. It’s funny how I actually take them for granted. There are just so many hanging on my three different varieties of mango trees – each of which yield very sweet fruit. I know that one is the killimooku, and one is the sindoora. As for the last one, I’m uncertain of the species but it tastes great just the same. I give away lots of the harvest, but the fruits are so flourishing at this time of year that I sometimes just have to leave them on the trees. There are monkeys, squirrels and parrots in the neighbourhood that enjoy them too, and more often that not, I let Nature do its thing. The birds and animals eat the fruit, drop the seeds somewhere in the yard, and now and then I find a young mango shoot emerging from the soil. These little discoveries remind me of how amazing life itself is.

Besides which, look at the beautiful colours of this sindoora. I enjoy even just admiring the fruit on the tree (though of course, I probably enjoy eating it all the more).

Not needing to buy mangoes has many perks, including that I know that the ones at home are naturally ripened and grown. I’m aware that many store-bought mangoes are either sweetened or advanced through chemical processes, and am grateful that I can avoid these.

When I do eat mangoes from beyond my own backyard, they are usually the ones in friends’ backyards. There is a lot of exchange that happens this season. That’s how I got my hands on some luscious Alphonso mangoes. They are delicious and the flesh is a lovely orange colour that makes the tart altogether very pretty. Any sweet mango variety, available all over the subcontinent now, will work perfectly for this dish.

Mango Tart

(Yield: 9’ tart)

1¾ cups flour
¼ cup almond flour
½ cup powdered sugar
½ cup cold butter
½ teaspoon salt
1 egg

Filling:
½ cup mango pulp
1 cup milk
¼ cup powdered sugar
3 tablespoons cornflour
1 teaspoon agar agar

Preheat the oven at 160°C for 20 minutes.

Add all the ingredients for the filling in a bowl. Set aside.Crumble the butter with your fingers along with the flour and the egg. Gently bring it all together until you get a smooth dough. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Remove the dough from the fridge. Using parchment papers, roll the dough gently into a 12’ roll and place carefully over the tart pan. Using your hands, press the sides down. With the help of a fork, pierce the tart base so that it does not fluff, and cover with foil (you can use lentils to weigh down the foil). Bake until golden, which will take about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool a little.

Meanwhile, add the milk, mango pulp, sugar, cornflour and agar agar in a pan. Stir well. Now place on a medium flame and stir constantly until it thickens. Set aside.

Once the filling cools down a little, and the tart base is at room temperature, pour the custard over the tart. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Decorate the top of the tart with sliced mangoes and any other garnishing of your choice. Refrigerate for at least thirty minutes before serving.

I know many people use biscuit crumbs as a tart base, but I like making it from scratch this way. Now that I’ve done so and gained confidence in my tart-making skills, I’ll certainly try making it with other kinds of fruit too. For now, here is a lovely mango tart. I hope you’ll be inspired to try it out too!

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Recipe: All Things Tropical: Mango Perfection – Mambalam Pulissery

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Last week, I offered you the recipe for kela nu shaak, a Gujarati dish that was inspired by seeing bananas all around me while travelling in Kerala. Today, my love of tropical fruits is explored through another recipe. This one is also closely tied to my recent trip as it is a part of Malayali cuisine. My favourite place to eat while in Kerala is always the Grand Hotel in Kochi. It is a simple but beautiful art deco hotel, and the restaurant is always full as its delicious traditional fare is very popular. Red rice is usually served alongside various vegetarian and non-vegetarian curries. This was where I first tasted mambalam pulissery, which I had again on this trip, of course. Each year, during mango season, I make it at home too.

If you recall, I had shared a recipe for pineapple curry with you a few years ago, and this is somewhat similar in its preparation. When I began making it at home, I found that mambalam pulissery is pretty easy, and I was able to tweak the recipe to my liking too. My family really enjoys it so it’s quite often on our dining table at this time of year. Also, when my relatives visit me from outside Chennai, where I live, they always request South Indian meals. They want novelty from the Gujarati fare that they usually have in their own homes. During the summer, this mambalam pulissery is one of their favourites.

What determines the flavour is the kind of mango that one uses, and the taste of each variety can be noted in the dish. Here, I usually use a sindoora or peetr. I have also found that alphonso or banagapalli work very well in this recipe. Really, any ripe mango from your vicinity or back garden will go perfectly.

There is something about growing ingredients on your own that makes the whole experience of cooking more pleasurable. For instance, I happen to be fortunate to have mango trees at home. So I’ll pluck some fruit from my sindoora tree and put it in this dish, and then I’ll find myself repeating to every person who eats the meal: “These mangoes are from that tree at the back, and the coconut base is from my coconut trees too!” It really feels quite special to say this. This hardly only applies to just mangoes or coconuts. If you don’t have a garden, considering growing herbs in your kitchen, or utilise a balcony or terrace. It really makes a difference in how you feel about the food you prepare when you put homegrown ingredients in.

Mambalam Pulissery

(Yield: Serves 2-4)

½ cup grated coconut

2 whole red Kashmiri chillies

A pinch of turmeric

1 teaspoon ginger-chilli paste

1 teaspoon jeera (cumin seeds)

2 ripe mangoes (peeled and cut into big pieces)

¼ cup curd

 

Tempering

1 tablespoon sesame oil

½ teaspoon jeera

½ teaspoon mustard

½ teaspoon urad dal

A pinch of asafoetida

 

Blend the coconut, red chillies, turmeric, ginger-chilli paste and jeera with enough water to make a paste. Set aside.

In a pot, add the ripe mangoes. Immediately after, add a cup of hot water and salt. Cover the pot and allow to cook until the mangoes are a little tender. It will take a few minutes. Mix gently.

Once the mangoes are tender, add the paste that was set aside earlier.

Next, beat the curd until it is smooth and then add it to the pot.

To prepare the tempering, add the sesame oil. Once the oil is hot, add the urad dal, then jeera and mustard. Allow to splutter. Then, add curry leaves and red chillies along with asafoetida.

Pour the tempering on the cooked mangoes. Stir gently.

Mambalam pulissery is usually served with rice. Enjoy it hot.

If you’d like to explore another recipe from Kerala cuisine, I’d recommend this coconut stew. As for mangoes themselves, I have a whole selection of recipes over the years!

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Recipe: Charmingly Green – Raw Mango Chutney

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As you probably know by now, I have mango trees in my garden. At home, we really do take these for granted. Sometimes, there are so many fruits ripening out there that we don’t even try to stop the monkeys in the neighbourhood from coming to make a meal of them. One of the varieties that we grow, known as the parrot beak or killimooku, is best enjoyed when it is still raw. It is not unbearably tangy, which makes it just perfect for condiments like this raw mango chutney. You may also remember it from this vegan raw mango dal and other raw mango recipes I’ve shared before.

Initially, the challenge for me was always about making it a green chutney, as I like the colour. Invariably, my many trials would result in a chutney that was blackish or another shade. While the taste remains the same, the visual effect differs. Both as a photographer and as a cook, I believe the eyes eat first. I wanted that beautiful, pure green of the fruit to be captured in the dish as well. So I persevered until I hit upon the perfect method to create a green raw mango chutney.

I have made and shared another green chutney before, a coriander one. I have also made and shared a raw mango thovayal, which is a coarse chutney from Tamil cuisine. But I have never shared a raw mango chutney itself so far, and this may be because it has taken me this long to figure out how to ensure it comes out green and stays that way!

I hope this will be the case when you try it out too, as that lovely green is such a delight to look at. I am not sure what the trick is exactly – whether it is the tiny pinch of turmeric, or the ice cool water. I am sure there’s a scientific reason, something about chemistry or temperature, that I just haven’t gotten to the bottom of. I do want to assure you again that if your chutney turns out anything other than green, it should still be fine to consume!

I somehow prefer this recipe to the coriander chutney, taste-wise. I enjoy it with dhoklas and other Gujarati savouries. It is absolutely delicious as a dollop of hot rice, in lieu of a pickle, along with some ghee. I also wonder whether it would work as a pesto replacement in a toastie. Since it’s the season, I may give this experiment a shot one of these days.

My inspiration for this really comes from the region I live in and grew up in. Tamil cuisine is full of chutneys and thovayals, and I’ve not really encountered raw mango used this way in Gujarati cuisines. It is not only the flesh that is used. I have recently seen a chutney made only with the seed, from the beginning of the season when it is tender. Mango peel, as well as ridge gourd peel, are also turned into similar condiments. I may also experiment with this, perhaps by cooking the skin a bit.

Once again, despite so often taking it for granted, I am reminded of just how versatile the mango plant is. Not only are all parts of its fruit edible, but its leaves too are used in prayers, as they are considered auspicious. Those lush green trees, beautifully blossoming away in summers, bring much needed cool relief. Whatever we do, we go full circle and come back to the beauty of nature – don’t we?

Raw Mango Chutney

(Yield: 1½ cups)

2 tablespoons coconut

2 tablespoons roasted chickpeas

Salt to taste

1 cup coriander leaves (no stalks)

¼ cup mint leaves

2 pods garlic

1 cup raw mango

1 teaspoon roasted cumin powder

½ teaspoon sugar

2 green chillies

¼ cup cold water

A pinch of turmeric

 

Seasoning:

1 tablespoon sesame oil

¼ teaspoon mustard seeds

¼ teaspoon cumin seeds

A few curry leaves

 

Wash and peel the mangoes and cut them into pieces.

In a blender, add all the ingredients and blend until you have a smooth paste.

Prepare the seasoning. Heat the oil and add the mustard seeds and cumin seeds. Once the mustard seeds start to splutter, add the curry leaves. Immediately, pour the seasoning over the prepared chutney.

Your raw mango chutney is now ready to be enjoyed. If you are a fan of Indian dips like this one, I hope you’ll also explore my recipes for ginger chutney, plum chutney, wood-apple chutney and date chutney.

 

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Recipe: Really Tasty – Raw Mango Thovayal

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This year’s mango series on my blog comes to a conclusion with a recipe that seamlessly leads into my next series: Indian dips and condiments. Call them chutneys, thovayals, sambals, pickles, relishes or by any name. They serve the purpose of enhancing a meal, and there are a huge range eaten across the subcontinent, often particular to certain communities. They tend to be heavy in spices and masalas so as to lend their strong flavours to otherwise mildly flavourful main dishes. It’s important to choose the right condiment, to complement rather than clash with the rest of the meal. Over the next few weeks, I’ll be sharing a selection of particularly tasty ones, which I hope you’ll enjoy pairing with mains of your choice. Today, I will be sharing the recipe for raw mango thovayal (or thogayal), a Tamil-style condiment that will elevate a variety of traditional and fusion meals.

I was born and brought up in Chennai, and I learnt Gujarati culinary traditions from my mother, who was also born and brought up in South India. She learnt her repertoire from her mother, who was raised in Gujarat but migrated, and who had replicated a menu that was as close to authentic as possible. However, it was also limited in terms of ingredient availability, as well as adapted to suit the climate here. This meant that certain winter vegetables consumed seasonally in Gujarat were not something my siblings and I, or indeed my mother and her own siblings, could have eaten growing up. There were certain recipes that I had no exposure to, and I am continuing to expand what I know about this cuisine. Many other food bloggers have provided inspiration, as has my sister, who lives in Mumbai and who learnt a multitude of dishes in the Gujarati Jain style from her mother-in-law. As you may know if you’ve been reading this blog for a while, I’ve also gained so much knowledge from my friends, who generously give their recipes not only to me, but encourage me to share them with my readers too.

Adaptability, resourcefulness and innovation are the traits of all good cooks everywhere, and a sense of culinary curiosity is what makes preparing everyday meals exciting. My own personal style is a medley of Gujarati cuisine, South Indian cuisines, Macrobiotics training, enthusiasm for veganism, travels aboard and growing up in a multi-cultural setting. As kids, while we ate Gujarati food at home, we also spent lots of time at the homes of our Tamil and Malayali neighbours (like Girija, whose mother made a brilliant ishtew) on practically a daily basis, thus enjoying a wonderful diversity of snacks and meals. My own children are now a third generation of Gujaratis who were raised in South India (I often jokingly say that their Tamil skills are better than their fluency in their mother tongue). If my own upbringing was multi-cultural, my children’s was even more so, and they have travelled and been exposed to even more of the world than I had by their age. Today’s generation and the generations to follow enjoy a blend of influences and experiences, and their food preferences reflect the same.

Coming back to thovayal, my recipe today is really a culmination rather than a combination of my own varied influences and experiences. It’s a raw mango thovayal made up of the memories of hundreds of meals at friends’ homes, prepared with simple ingredients that I happened to have in my garden and kitchen. In my home, this side dish is usually eaten with white dhokla (I’ll share a recipe for that soon). Dhokla is usually eaten with green chutney, but I prefer it with this thovayal, as the raw mango is a wonderful coolant for Chennai summers. Can you think of a more perfect example of a Gujarati-Tamil cultural melange?

Raw Mango Thovayal

(Yield: 1 cup)

1 cup cut, peeled raw mango

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 teaspoons urad dal

2 green chillies

2 dry red chillies

6-10 curry leaves

3 tablespoons fresh coriander leaves

½ cup coconut

2 tablespoons roasted gram (optional/alternative: peanuts)

2 teaspoons groundnut oil or sesame oil

Salt to taste

 

You can make thovayal with a variety of bases, simply replacing the raw mango. Coconut is popularly used as a base, for example. I use green chillies in mine so that the thovayal retains a refreshing green colour, but you could use garlic for the spice quotient instead.

To prepare this recipe, simply add all the ingredients together in a mixer jar and blend coarsely. Add no more than 3-4 tablespoons of water when you do so.

The thovayal will be of a thick consistency, comparable to a chutney. It can be stored in the refrigerator for 4-5 days.

Enjoy it as a condiment with any meal of your choice (do let me know in the comments how you pair it, please!). I think it could also work as an excellent marinade for chicken, or if added to roasted potatoes to enhance their flavour. It all comes down to your creativity.

I hope you’ve been making the most of the mango season through the wide range of recipes I’ve shared here that celebrate the fruit in both raw and ripe forms. In case you want to catch up, this is the big list of the delicious mango dishes I’ve posted over the years: vegan raw mango dal, raw mango rice, mango twist, mango osaman, mango lassi, mango salad, sweet and spicy mango pickles, ripe mango rasam and curry leaf and raw mango cooler. Here’s to many more seasons of culinary plenitude!

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Recipe: Sour-ly Needed, So Delicious – Vegan Raw Mango Dal

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Dal is the daily staple in practically every Gujarati home, and it’s no different in mine. The classic style is slightly sweet and slight sour, and I shared the recipe for it a few months ago. I try to use a range of lentils, so that we get a good mix of nutritious elements as well as variety of tastes over the course of a week at home. Other dal recipes that I’ve shared earlier include this horsegram dal and this mixed dal. There are hundreds of varieties across India, and I’m happy to share one more recipe that I hope you’ll be able to add to your repertoire too.

Just like there are hundreds of varieties of dal in India, there are also hundreds of varieties of mangoes. Other than the parrot-beaked, sweet-sour killimooku, I also have the not-sweet-at-all sindura growing in my garden. This won’t begin to fruit properly until May, however, and I had been eyeing it daily, wanting to make some amchur (dry mango powder), which requires a sour variant. Finally, I decided to put out an enquiry in a local resource group, asking if anyone had organic raw mangoes I could use for the same. Shefali, whom I had known through mutual friends, came to my rescue. She sent across a beautiful bounty from her own tree. Sour mangoes – and one very sweet gesture.

This vegan raw mango dal recipe came about because I had wondered whether raw mango would be a good substitute for the kokum or lime that I was using to add some tang to our daily dals. Since I had Shefali’s mangoes on hand for the amchur, I decided to give this a try. It worked out spectacularly – raw mango here isn’t just a condiment, but is in fact a vital component of this dal.

I know that many communities across the country make dals using either raw mangoes or ripe mangoes, and that this is especially common in Bengal and Kerala. The harvest in my home aside, I was already in ideation mode about what kinds of recipes to share with you through the season, and I knew I wanted to do something that would accompany rice or rotis. Having given you this ripe mango rasam a few summers ago, I was keen to offer a raw mango accompaniment this time. I had been thinking over how to, when this recipe grew organically from the kokum-substitution I’d mentioned earlier. Don’t you just love it when something simple clicks in a surprising way, and you realise that you’ve innovated something special? I’m all the more excited these days when I discover I can make something the vegan way, and this recipe is vegan too.

Raw mangoes are nutritious, as they are high in Vitamins A, B and C, as well as magnesium and calcium, thus offering health benefits ranging from the cardiac to the dental, with some heat-busting and hydrating properties to boot. They’re great for summers as they can prevent water loss, replenish the thirsty body, as well as help against stomach ailments arising from the heat. Digestive detoxification, lowering cholesterol levels and improving hormonal functions are some of the other qualities they are known to have.

As for the lentils I’ve chosen to use in this recipe, they are combination of split yellow mung dal and toor dal (pigeon pea). The former are lighter on the stomach than the latter, hence the mingling of the two to create a dish that’s easier to digest while still giving you the benefits and taste of both lentils. Since we mostly eat this dal at lunch time, I also avoid the use of garlic on weekdays as most of us have to get back to meetings and so on during the rest of the afternoon. If you make a thick preparation, this dal is ideal for rotis, whereas a thinner preparation is best enjoyed with rice.

As for me, being a carb-observant eater, I often consume a bowlful of dal with just a tablespoon of rice, topped with a liberal tempering of ghee (not vegan, I know – but this is completely optional). This becomes such a healthy, delicious meal all by itself. I am still light on my feet afterwards, and that little extra kick that comes from the raw mangoes when I’ve made this particular recipe that day is so satisfying in itself.

Raw Mango Dal

(Yield: 4 cups)

¼ cup toor dal
¼ cup split mung dal
½ cup cut raw mango
1½ cups water to cook
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon oil
½ teaspoon mustard seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon green chili/ginger paste
¼ teaspoon asafoetida
½ teaspoon coriander/cumin powder
4-6 curry leaves
2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander leaves

Rinse the dals together and place them into a pressure cooker, along with the cut raw mango and turmeric.

Let this cook until tender. Mash the dal with a masher and set aside.

In a kadai, add the oil, and once it has heated, add the mustard seeds. You may substitute the oil with ghee if you are not making a vegan preparation. Once they begin to splutter, add the cumin seeds, curry leaves, asafoetida and finally the chili/ginger paste. Sauté for 2 seconds and add the mashed dal. If you like the flavour of garlic, you can add some during the sautéeing.

Add salt and coriander/cumin powder. Mix well and serve hot with the garnish.

If the mango is not sour enough you can add more chunks of it or even squeeze in some lemon or lime.

If like me or any Gujarati you know, you have a sweet tooth, you could also add some jaggery to compete with the tang of the raw mango. This would make for a most delicious dal, with a medley of tastes.

As it is, this is a very simple and appetising dal, with the flavours of the mango and the lentils evident because it is not overloaded with spices or condiments. It’s not the kind of dal one makes when a burst of masala is preferred; instead it is the comforting, homemade kind, albeit with a little kick from the raw fruit.

I hope that this vegan dal made with sour mangoes adds nutrition to your diet, gives you energy and strength, and as strange as it may sound – sweetens your day during these challenging times with its sheer deliciousness.

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Recipe: Right From The Tree – Raw Mango Rice

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We have mango trees in the back garden, and every summer I seek out new ways and means to utilise their bounty. This season, I’ve made aamchur – dry mango powder prepared by washing the fruit slices, drying them, then powdering them. It works in cooking as a lime substitute, and is just as healthy and as rich in Vitamic C. I’ve made pickles, and if you’re keen to do the same, you can take your pick of either sweet or spicy kinds from the recipes I shared in this post. I’ve made desserts, like the easy and very satisfying mango twist that I shared last week. Then, I thought – why not make a rice dish with some mangoes, too?

Coconut rice was one of the components of the South Indian Buddha bowl recipe, and this raw mango rice has a similar concept. It’s also like spinach rice, curry leaf rice or any other rice preparation that infuses the flavours of a particular ingredient. It’s interesting how we efficiently and creatively play up staples like rice as well as rotis through simple ways to elevate the basics. Seasonal flavourings are especially popular, just as it is with the recipe I am sharing today.

What I have growing at home are killimooku mangoes, known for their distinctive parrot-beak shape, as described in this raw mango cooler recipe. To my friends and readers around the world – did you know that every single kind of mango has its own flavour? My mother taught me how to select mangoes when I was very young, so I’m adept at differentiating between many of the popular variants on the market at the moment (although India has so many types of mangoes that to tell them all apart would truly be a kind of expertise!). My personal favourites are sweet, juicy ones – specifically the Ratnagiri Alphonso grown in Maharashtra (the state shares a common border with Telangana, where the slightly different Andhra Alphonsos are grown) and the Banagapalli grown in Andhra Pradesh’s Kurnool district, which can come in such large sizes that a single mango can sometimes suffice as an entire meal. Today, however, I’m reaching for what is literally in my backyard. The killimooku is not very sour, but neither is it sweet. It carries a lovely tang that truly uplifts the taste of rice.

This raw mango rice is both easy to prepare and highly adaptable. It travels well, so it’s perfect to pack for a day trip. It can be eaten plain, so you won’t even have to worry about any spills from the accompaniments. It can also work quite well in a Buddha bowl. I presume, based on the flavour palate, that it can be matched exquisitely with a fish curry, and I’d love to hear from those of you who enjoy seafood about how this recipe works in such a meal.

I made a large pot of this over the weekend and it was consumed quite quickly at home, with my family eating it plain, with rasam, with a potato roast and so on. The idea came to me because I saw a few raw mango rice posts on Instagram recently, and realised that I hadn’t made this dish in years. I did recall that it was something we ate now and then while we were growing up, so I knew that my sister would almost certainly have our mother’s preparation in her repertoire. She lives in Bombay, whereas I am based in Chennai, and we often do recipe exchanges, wherein I share Tamil styles like kootu and poriyal with her and she pulls out authentic Gujarati dishes for me. Together, we create quite an eclectic menu. Then again, I’ve also eaten raw mango rice as part of the sumptuous banana leaf service at South Indian weddings too, so perhaps – just like the mango – we can consider this a quintessentially Indian dish!

Raw Mango Rice

(Yield: Serves 2)

½ tablespoon oil

½ teaspoon channa dal

½ teaspoon urad dal

½ teaspoon mustard seeds

1 green chilli (sliced)

A few curry leaves

½ teaspoon turmeric powder

2 cups cooked rice

1 cup raw mango (grated)

Salt to taste

A pinch of asafoetida

Coriander leaves (to garnish)

 

Heat a kadai and add the oil. Once it has heated, add the channa dal and the urad dal. Allow them to turn golden, and then add the mustard seeds. Once they begin to splutter, add the asafoetida, curry leaves and green chilli.

Next, add the rice and the turmeric, along with salt to taste. Mix gently. Once it has all come together, turn off the flame. Finally, add the grated mango and mix once again. If you only have access to sour mangoes, rather than the delicately sweet-sour killimooku variant that I have used, use a smaller quantity than listed above.

Garnish with coriander leaves and serve hot with the accompaniments of your choice, or plain and simple. As I said earlier, I’m very curious to know how you’ll pair this rice, and I would simply love to hear about it from you in the comments!

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Recipe: Luscious Layers – Mango Twist

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Sometimes, you just don’t have the energy to do much in the kitchen at all, but that’s no reason to skimp on having a dessert that can make you feel better. Whether the heat has enervated you, or the ongoing pandemic has dragged your cheerful spirits down, the key to preparing a pick-me-up is in one aspect only: the simplicity quotient. I’ve been making this mango twist nearly every day, and you can too.

What I love about it is that ticks all the boxes: it satisfies my sweet tooth without the use of refined sugar, allows me to have well-rounded meals while I am off carbs, makes the most of the earth’s seasonal bounty, and is practically effortless to prepare.

Really, it’s so easy that anyone can make it. Which brings me to another reason that I thought this fruity dessert would be perfect to share right now. It’s that making it is just the kind of activity to keep your younger kids happy, and that’s something I can imagine many of you doing with the little ones being at home all the time now. Putting this dessert together is a simple way to get them to explore the vast world of cooking. The sense of achievement they’ll enjoy will taste almost as good as the dish itself. This is a beautiful way impart the value of a home-made treat or meal, and it shouldn’t surprise you if they graduate to wanting to try out more culinary experiments too. As I’ve said before on this blog, I consider my recipes my heirlooms. There’s no reason to wait till they are older to share an elaborate traditional method when you can instill the love of cooking in them from a very young age through simple dishes like this one.

Here’s yet another amazing tick on that check-list: this mango twist is vegan! Of late, I have noticed that cutting down on my dairy consumption really does make me feel better overall. While I am not a hardcore vegan, as much as I would like to be, I do love the coconut milk I use in this dish and enjoy consuming it in this delicious way. You can use dairy, if that’s what you have on hand. Or you can substitute the coconut milk with almond milk, which will result in a thinner dessert that you can plump up with nutritious chia seeds.

Variety is certainly one of the elements that keeps a dish like this interesting. When mango season ends, simply use any other fruit that you have on hand.

I think of this Mango Twist as one of those recipes that is so common that it hardly warrants a recipe. Surely, everyone already knows it, I pondered to myself when the idea of this post occurred to me. Then, I realised how in any hectic time, we often get so carried away that we neglect to notice what is right before our eyes. So this recipe is really more of a reminder, something that tells you to open your fridge and see for yourself – you probably already have everything you need to whip up something wonderful right away.

As a refrigerated dessert, you can also make it in advance so that it’s right there and ready for you when you desperately need something to cool off in this sweltering heat, or could use a pick-me-up. Some time in the hopefully not-far future, when we are back to entertaining guests as always, it’s also an ideal dessert to prepare earlier in the day so that you won’t have to take time putting a snack together after they arrive. Just take it out of the fridge and it’s ready to be served on a tray. It’s a visually attractive dessert, so presentation is key – what colours do you want to have pop inside the glass, and how will you layer the ingredients? You can go decadent, or you can keep it nutritious but still appealing by using fruits of different colours to create a tempting look.

Mango Twist

(Yield: 2 glasses)

1 cup coconut cream

½ cup mango pulp

Pecans or any topping of your choice

½ teaspoon maple syrup or honey (optional)

 

In each glass, add 2 teaspoons of coconut cream. I like to use small eatery glasses as they look very pretty. Layer this with the mango pulp. Freeze for sometime, then remove from the freezer. Now, top the pulp again with the coconut cream gently. Finally, add the pecans or any other toppings of your choice, and drizzle with some maple syrup or honey, as healthier sweetening substitutes. I only use these if I find the mango a little tart. Otherwise, the dessert doesn’t need it.

In lieu of coconut cream, you can also use pudding, fresh cream or other substitutes. Some other great toppings include caramelised nuts, maple syrup, honey, orange rind and seeds. Any kind of brittle, crumbled cake or re:store’s popular muesli will also add more taste and texture. Don’t forget that no matter what time of year you make this, you can use any seasonal fruit of your choice. When preparing it with your kids, indulge them with colourful jellies or cute chocolates that will make the smiles on their faces even bigger.

Given that this is a summer during which the simple pleasures are more important than ever, as we continue to collectively fight the pandemic, I intend to fully take all the joy I can get from the mango season. Do subscribe or connect over Instagram so that you’ll know as soon as my next few recipes go up – dishes that range from sweet to sour to savoury are coming, all thanks to this wonderful fruit!

As I said earlier, I think of this mango twist as a “reminder recipe” – is there anything similar that you’d like to share in the comments? I am sure we would all love to know more about each others’ summer go-to dishes and desserts!

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Recipe: Stars Of The Summer – Seasonal Sweet Potato & Mango Salad

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The summer is here, and so are the sweet potatoes – and the mangoes! I couldn’t resist slicing some of these wonderful seasonal harvests up and putting them to delicious use in my kitchen. As you may know, we eat a lot of salads at home, and I’m always on a quest to add more variety and novelty to mine. The secret is in hitting on the right balance of flavours or textures, and pairing the dish with a dressing that uplifts it. I think I have a star in this one, and it’s delightful to me that it features one of the vegetables I have always enjoyed, alongside a fruit you just can’t go wrong with during an Indian summer.

I’ve spoken about mangoes plenty of times on this blog, so let me share my love for sweet potatoes as well.

The first way in which I enjoyed sweet potatoes was in a thick kheer or payasam that I used to have as a child. When they were in season and therefore plentiful, my mother would boil them, mash them and add milk. This would make for a very healthy dessert that required no further sweetening. She was an expert at such exquisitely simple milk-based desserts, and inspired me to create some of my own.

Certain memories come up when one contemplates any kind of familiar food. For me, the other important personal and cultural association that sweet potatoes evoke is that they are one of the ingredients that are permissible during the Faraali fasting that takes place in the month of Shravan, observed by Vaishnav Gujaratis. My mother maintained these fasts while we were growing up, and during those times she ate sweet potatoes frequently, and so did we.

Faraali is a relatively lenient type of fasting: it is not that consumption is not allowed, but that certain types of harvest are not permissible. Grains are taboo during this time, whereas tubers like sweet potatoes and yams form the bulk of the fasting menu.

Years later, through my Macrobiotics studies and my constant inquisitiveness about culinary science, I am able to understand and admire the beautiful logic of all fasting traditions, from Lent to Ramadan to Paryushan. I realise that Faraali must originally have been all about honouring the cycles of nature, avoiding certain types of harvest so as to allow the soil and the plants to replenish themselves during the rainy month of Shravan. It would also be the right time for the human body to purify itself with vegetables and fruits, as the weather would mean that people stepped out less and would also not be able to work in the fields. Fewer carbohydrates would be required, as less energy was required, so grains need not to be a part of the diet during that time. This is my perspective on the reasons behind this religious practice, and I often feel that when we think deeply about rituals, many of them will have a practical function behind them. Our ancestors were far more in sync with nature than we are, and had the wisdom to develop daily and seasonal routines that respected and kept this balance.

So for us today, as modern human beings with eclectic palates, one way to stay in sync is to accept that heavy lunches in the summer time make us more lethargic, and can diminish our productivity over the rest of the day. Salads cut out the heavy carb load of rice and grains, while also being filling, delicious, nourishing – and visually vibrant, which improves the mood and whets the appetite. If you’re a fan of this food category, be sure to explore my archives, where I’ve shared many of the tried-and-true salads that are super hits at home: this one where the passion fruit dressing is the star, another season-suitable mango salad, a nutritious millet salad, and a few dishes you may not have thought of as salads but really are, like peach salsa, sundal and green moong bhel. Another health-boosting eating habit is to regard a salad not as an appetiser or an accompaniment, but as a meal-in-a-bowl. It’s really just about portions.

Coming specifically to this summery sweet potato and mango salad, I am often a bit suspicious of the unusual sweetness of the sweet potato chips that many restaurants serve, and I prefer making them myself. The technique is very easy, as you’ll see below. You can substitute the sweet potatoes for yams, and use the same thin-sliced technique to fry them. These crispy sweet potatoes are what I use in this salad. If you prefer not to fry them at all, you can have them steamed and sliced. It all depends on the textures you’re building the salad with, and any health or taste preferences that you may have.

 

Seasonal Sweet Potato And Mango Salad

(Yield: 1 bowl)

 

½ cup sliced sweet potato

½ cup sliced ripe sweet mango

2 cups lettuce

½ onion

2 tablespoons coriander leaves

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 tablespoon sunflower seeds

 

Dressing:

Salt to taste

1 tablespoon honey

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 tablespoons pomegranate juice

A pinch of black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

 

In a bowl, add all the dressing ingredients together. Store this in the fridge.

Heat a pan and add the oil. Once the oil has heated, add the sliced sweet potato. Make sure the sweet potato is sliced thin so that it can cook faster. Cover with a lid and allow to cook for a few minutes on a low flame.

Then, remove the lid and increase the flame to medium. Allow the slices to turn crisp. Flip them to ensure that both sides are well done. Once they are fried, set them aside.

Prepare the salad by putting the sliced onion and torn lettuce into a bowl. Add the fried sweet potato crisps and the fresh mango slices on top. Add the dressing, garnish with coriander leaves, and mix gently. Allow to cool for some time, and serve.

I hope you’ll enjoy the mix of crispiness and sweetness in this simple yet satisfying sweet potato and mango salad. It’s just perfect for this hot weather, and keeps you light on your feet after the meal. Speaking of the summer, since we are in mango season here in South India, you can expect next weekend’s post to celebrate the fruit. In the meanwhile, maybe you’ll want to check out the many ways the mango has starred in my recipes over the years?

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