India is well-known for pickles, and there is no regional community anywhere in the country that goes a summer without pickling some kind of produce or the other. Mangoes in particular make for the perfect base, but the season for that is not quite yet here. Now, we are at the tail end of the cooler months, when preparing fresh condiments – while also enjoying the pickles that have already been in the pantry for a while – is traditional. This month, I want to share the recipe for a sautéed green pepper condiment from Gujarat, known as vagharela marcha.

A quick aside – while I did say mango (and therefore mango pickling) season is not here yet, it is just around the corner. The thought of this fills me with both delicious anticipation and with many memories. On the subject of pickling alone, for instance, there is the fact that my mother made a few kinds of mango pickles during the summer. When I was growing up, my job was to go up to the terrace in the evenings and bring the sun-dried mangoes back to the kitchen. These would be cooked – either sweetened, or else in a method that created a dish that was sour, salty and spicy all at once. I remember how I would often stick my finger into the pot and take a lick before she noticed. I loved these pickles so very much, and still make them.

Many generations before me, and before my mother, did too. When it comes to Gujarati cuisine, which developed according to the landscape and seasons of Gujarat, pickling ahead of time for the winter was a whole culinary category of its own. Condiments would also be made with available ingredients, to be used over a few days. Some of these did well under the winter sun, while others responded to simple salt, lime and spice mixes. Innovation was required, especially before the advent of supermarkets, in order to make meals more exciting, as some kinds of fresh produce would be scarce due to the climate. This held and still holds true across North India, which experiences harsher winters than the South. In Punjab, carrots are harvested at this time, so you will see this vegetable used in myriad ways. One of my favourites is gobi shalgam gaajar char, a pickle that uses carrot, cauliflower and turnip. In Gujarat and adjacent Maharashtra, big chillies (which are not very spicy) grow abundantly in winter, and would be used in everything from fried bhajis to condiments.

Coming back to condiments, then, this Gujarati winter special, vagharela marcha, uses these very same light green chillies or peppers. What I am sharing is a very simple and quick version, which is ideal for our busy contemporary time. It works as a saviour as a spread, pepping up some leftover roti or paratha when you don’t have any accompaniments on hand, and it also shines as one of many sides on an elaborate thaali. Whenever I am entertaining at home and preparing a Gujarati selection, this vagharela marcha is sure to have its place.

This condiment lasts for three or four days, and that is in part because of the simplicity of the method. There are other, long-drawn methods which will result in chilli pickles that last through the year. I’ve particularly enjoyed certain variants that use lots of mustard.

Today, though, I want to focus on using what is present. At re:store we do believe in seasonal eating, and I’m thoroughly enjoying the last few days before the heat sets in fully – and I am consuming mindfully during this transition. We are loving the last of the season of light green peppers, so our vagharela marcha is always made fresh every few days, and always made at home.

My taste for vagharela marcha was developed through spending time with my sister. In her Jain household, annual pickling is less of a habit than fresh preparations due to customs around food that are observed there. This condiment is something often served in her home during the winters, and subsequently in mine. I don’t add many twists, as the traditional method is fantastic in my opinion. However, I am curious about substituting the bhaji chillies for jalapeños. If you try that sometime too, do let me know. I’d love to exchange notes!

Vagharela Marcha
(Serves: 5)

10–12 big light green chilies

1 tablespoon oil

Salt to taste

1 teaspoon sesame seeds

1½ teaspoons cumin seeds

A pinch of turmeric

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon coriander powder

½ teaspoon aamchur (dry mango) powder

1 tablespoon besan (chickpea flour)

Cut the green chilies lengthwise and remove the seeds. Cut into smaller pieces as desired. Set aside.

Heat oil in a kadai. Add the cumin seeds and the sesame seeds. Sauté until they turn golden, then add the sliced chillies. Now, add the salt. Stir on a medium to high flame for a minute, then add the coriander powder and turmeric. Cover with a lid for a little under a minute, allowing to cook.

Then, remove the lid. Add the fennel seeds and the aamchur powder. Stir well, and then remove from then flame.

Serve warm or at room temperature. This delicious condiment works both as a side and a spread, and can be had with roti or rice. Don’t forget to explore more condiment recipes in my archives!